Prologue:
Since my ride in June down the coast from Big Sur to Los Angeles I have been thinking of another short relatively local bike tour. My first idea was to do the Big Sur ride again and my daughter had agreed to take me up on 9/22 or 9/29. I was also contemplating a loop ride from 29 Palms through Borrego Springs and Temecula and back to 29 Palms. As the end of September approached her schedule closed in to the point that it would have been a real inconvenience for her to drive me to the north so I decided to do the more local ride and here we are. I waited a week or two longer partly because of weather concerns but also just because that is the way it worked out.
Day 1: 29 Palms, CA to Cottonwood Springs Campground, JTNP, CA
Date: October 07, 2012
Miles: 42.43
Time: 5:45:57
Elevation: @3,000
Average Speed: 7.3
Max Speed: 30.7
My goal today was to leave home between 12:00 and 1:00 PM and have a leisurely ride over to Cottonwood Springs at the south park entrance where I would arrive before dark to set up camp and spend the night. I did leave at 1:00 but did not get away from the house until 1:19 because my phone/bike computer would not pick up a GPS signal. I had high hopes of capturing a GPS map of my entire trip using the Velodroid Bicycle App and did not want to start until the phone was recording. Subsequent events proved that waiting was futile but I had no way of knowing that at the time.
The loaded bike weighed 80 pounds before I took it out the door. The load included the usual camping gear, some food including very heavy bananas and oranges, just short of a gallon of water in 5 bicycle water bottles, 5 12 ounce Diet Cokes, and what I hoped would be appropriate clothing to cover the anticipated weather for the week, probably about 45 pounds in total.
I completely underestimated the time and effort required to peddle this load 2,000 vertical feet to the top of the first climb, at 3850 feet, 14 miles from home and consequently did not arrive there until about 4:00. It was clear that I would not reach camp until well after dark but it was a warm Sunday afternoon, I had ample lighting and I thought that most of the traffic would be out of the park by dark so I took a break and pressed on.
The next 12 miles were a nice downhill coast to the low point of the day's ride in "Pinto Basin" at about 1600 feet. As I started across the bottom of the basin I noticed the phone running the bicycle app had gone dark. I stopped to look at it and soon realized that much to my surprise the battery was completely dead as was the Biologic Battery Pack which was supposed to be charged by the front hub "dyno" and keep the whole operation running. In retrospect I realize that at the very slow speed which I had climbed for 3 hours there was no way for the dyno to keep up with the phone especially since I had kept the screen on the entire time (the phone is a battery hog to boot). The Biologic was not fully charged when I left home and to add insult to injury I got worried about over voltage coming down from the top and turned on the headlight to take up some of what I was afraid might be excess current.
I discovered when I got home that the phone app had preserved the 26 miles it did record before running out of juice but it is a disappointment to not have the entire ride recorded for posterity. It was a good educational experience though.
At this point I was still about 16 miles from camp so I pushed on. I took a break at one of the exhibit pullouts about 4 miles on and then set out in earnest for the top at Cottonwood. At the point where the last serious climb to the top starts I switched on the lights and rode the last 8 miles in the dark. I arrived at the entrance station at 7:55. I had planned to fill all my water bottles there but the campground information poster indicated that there is water at the campground so I rested a bit then rode the mile or so down the hill to the campground. I looked at the map at the registration area then went into the first loop and stopped at the first campsite. It turned out to be fine with a flat area for the tent close to the table.
I unloaded the bike and set up the tent. I had considered having a peanut butter sandwich for dinner but decided that hot food sounded good so I fired up my little stove, boiled some water and hydrated a serving of Mountain House Chili Mac with Beef. It was delicious and went a long way towards reconstituting my tired old body. I went to bed about 10:00.
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Day 2: Cottonwood Springs Campground to Font's Wash near Borrego Springs, CA
Date: October 08, 2012
Miles: 67.54
Time: 6:34:31
Elevation:
Average Speed: 10.2
Max Speed: 28.7
I got up at about 8:00, packed up, ate and left the campground at 9:45. I rode up the hill to the entrance station and lingered there until about 10:20 when I started for Borrego. I had to climb over one little hill then had about 30 miles of downhill out of the park and across I-10 and through Box canyon to Mecca (CA not SA). I stopped a couple of times in the canyon to take photos. It is a very interesting area geologically, mud looking many layered hills which appear to have been under the sea at one time but are presently shoved up and ruptured and fractured in many bizarre ways. The road is about 5-600 feet above today's sea level and crosses the San Andreas Fault in the canyon.
I passed through downtown Mecca and stopped at a truck stop/gas station/mini-mart and restaurant complex at the junction of Highway 86. I bought two candy bars, a small box of Oreo Cookies, gum and a cold Coke. I devoured the candy bars and to my surprise about 1/2 the box of cookies. I usually do not care for Oreos these days but they certainly hit the spot on this trip. After the snacks and a rest I started down Highway 86 for Salton City and Borrego.
The 25 miles to Salton City surprised me because I knew the net elevation loss would be about 150 feet but I seemed to be constantly going uphill. Of course there was enough headwind to aggravate the situation too. I suppose that if one is going to live and recreate in the desert it probably makes no sense to even mention the wind but I like to complain so I am. Wind sucks!
At the corner of Highway and San Diego S-22 which goes to Borrego there is another truck stop/gas station/mini mart which appears to be the twin of my first stop. I walked in the door and instantly saw the hot dog section. I fixed myself a Jalapeno hot dog with all the trimmings and bought a gallon of water and 2 cold 20-oz. cokes. At this point my intent was to go to an off-road camping area I knew existed 4-5 miles up S-22 and stop there for the day. I ate the dog, drank a Coke, filled my water bottles, strapped the gallon jug which was about 1/2 full on the back and headed up the hill.
I pulled into the camping area and found the most likely looking spot to set up shop, about 1/2 mile in from the pavement. I sat there and rested and realized I really did not want to spend the night there. It was the bleakest camping area I had ever seen, like a scene from a post-apocalyptic war movie. It was about 4:30. I knew I had about another 1 1/2 hours of sunlight. I decided to ride for another hour and see where I ended up so I found my way back to the paved road and started out again. This section of S-22 traverses a large alluvial fan or hunk of sea bottom which has been cut by erosion into an area which can only be called "Badlands". The road goes up a ridge between big canyons and up and down through and over many small valleys and ridges and more canyons. I kept my eyes open but did not see a camping opportunities and so in spite of my goal of stopping in an hour I had no choice but to press on. Just before dark at about 7:30 I saw a car coming out of a large wash on my left. This turned out to be Font's Wash. I knew I was about 10 miles from town and did not want to ride in the dark again and the wash looked flat and smooth so I pulled in an pushed the bike about 1/4 mile to a nice spot behind a salt (I think) tree. I was mostly out of sight of the road and the traffic was light anyway so I felt this was a fine and safe place to spend the night.
I unloaded and pitched the tent. Since the wind was blowing and there was no table and I was tired I decided to have a peanut butter sandwich for dinner and go to bed. The sandwich was not the greatest but I stuffed it down and hit the hay with all my luggage in the tent with me. It was good to lay down.
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Day 3: Font's Wash near Borrego Springs, CA to Borrego Palm Canyon Campground, Borrego Springs, CA
Date: October 09, 2012
Miles: 20.73
Time: 2:26:38
Elevation:
Average Speed: 8.4
Max Speed: 22.1
I woke up about 6:30, packed up and got on the road early with the intention of going into town and buying a cup of coffee and sitting in the park and enjoying the morning before deciding what to do next.
The options I was considering were, 1) go back to Palm Springs on Highways 86 and 111 and get a motel then ride or take the bus home, 2) press on to Temecula and my friend Doug's house via S-22 and Highway 79 which I knew climbs an 8% grade for 9 miles to gain at least 3,000 feet or 3) to go to Temecula via San Diego S-3, Highway 78 and San Felipe Road to Highway 79 which climbs about 1000 feet less and over a much longer distance but is 15 miles longer overall. On the way into town I tentatively decided I would camp at the Anza-Borrego State Park Palm Canyon Campground if they had a hiker/biker site and rest the remainder of the day then decide in the morning.
When I got into town I rounded Christmas Circle and headed for the liquor store to get coffee and Coke. A few doors up from the liquor store is a good and inexpensive Mexican food place and the minute I saw it I knew I needed Mexican food for breakfast so I pulled in. I ordered Carne Asada Tacos and coffee and sat outside and had a most delicious breakfast. Afterwards I bought Gatorade, Coke and more Oreos (I had finished the first box during the night) at the liquor store and went to the park which is inside Christmas Circle and sat around for about an hour. Once the food started hitting me I knew I did not want to cover any distance the rest of the day so I headed up the hill to the State Park. The kiosk was unmanned and I did not have a $5.00 bill or a pen so I bought some shower tokens and rode up to the hiker/biker site which is almost at the very top of the campground but in a very beautiful and somewhat secluded area with restrooms and showers nearby. I unloaded and set up the tent then took a shower. I set out to make a cup of coffee and discovered my propane canister was empty. I sat and poked around for a time then got my sleeping pad out of the tent and took a nap on the picnic table as it was the only place around with shade and it was a warm day. After the nap I lolled around until about 5:00 when I coasted back into town to try to locate a propane cartridge and some more coke and Gatorade. The only open store was out of propane so I got the drinks, a pen and a $5 and rode back to camp. I stopped at the entrance station and registered and paid then went on up the hill to camp.
I discovered there was a 110 volt outlet on the end of the restroom building so I took my dinner and phone over and let the phone charge while my spaghetti dinner was soaking in cold water. I exchanged some text messages with Doug and told him I was inclined to head to Palm Springs in the morning but that I would keep him informed as the situation unfolded. The spaghetti was a bit crunchy but delicious. I ate it and stood around enjoying the beautiful evening awhile then went back to camp and went to bed.
All in all a nice day.
PS For reasons I do not understand I have no pictures from this day. I know I took several but I cannot find them on my phone or in my online photos. It is a puzzle.
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Day 4: Borrego Palm Canyon Campground, Borrego Springs, CA to Temecula, CA
Date: October 10, 2012
Miles: 49.13
Time: 6:32:21
Elevation: @4,000
Average Speed: 7.5
Max Speed: 29.5
I woke up at 6:00 after a good sleep. I felt good and even energetic. After eating a bit and packing up I decided I would coast the mile down to the start of the S-22 climb and decide there which way I wanted to go. When I got to the junction sure enough I turned right and started up the hill. I do not regret choosing this route but it is the steepest and most sustained climb I have done on a bicycle to date and it was quite a chore with my load which was still probably 40 pounds or so.
I had decided I would start slowly and take my time and go as slow as needed and see how it went with the option of turning and coasting back to town if it was too brutal. I thought it would take 4-5 hours to get to the top and in fact it took just a few minutes less than 4. I stopped several times to rest and take photos and also walked the bike at least a mile to get a change of pace. It went OK but I am not anxious to do it again.
About 1 1/2 miles west of the summit of the climb I came to the Montezuma Valley Store. I stopped and bought Gatorade, Coke, honey, a bag of corn chips and a candy bar. I made myself a peanut butter and honey sandwich and ate it and about 1/2 the bag of chips and consumed the liquids and candy at a table in front. The man running the store came out and we had a good talk. He was a very interesting person who had retired to the area and was working in the store 2 days a week to help the owner out.
I had covered 14 miles so far and had at least 50 to go to Doug's so I got on the road again and headed for Warner Springs and Temecula.
I had a nice downhill run for about 6 miles before turning north towards Highway 79. At 79 I started a pretty good climb into Warner Springs where I stopped at the defunct gas station/mini-mart and took a break. From there I had about 2 miles of downhill then 6 miles of climbing to Sunrise Summit which I knew was the end of the serious climbing for the day. It is downhill to Temecula from there with the exception of a few short climbs. I had been trying to text or call Doug all day but had had no cell phone service. I stopped at Sunrise Summit and Oak Glen in hopes of raising him to no avail. When I reached a point about 15 miles from Doug's house I stopped to take a "nature break" in some roadside trees and finally was able to call Doug. It turned out he had received one of my morning text messages and deduced from it I was headed his way and he was about 5 miles away on highway 79 looking for me. We agreed I would wait where I was for him to come.
He arrived in about 5 minutes and we put my bike in his truck and headed for his house. I took a shower and we went down the street and had Mexican food for dinner.
We went back to Doug's and visited until his wife Abby came home at about 9:00. We visited more and I went to bed at about 11:00 and slept like a baby until 6:30 when the dogs, Pickles and Nellie, started scratching on my door after Abby had left for her Yoga class. Doug had left for work in Norco at 5:00 via carpool. He sent a text message about 8:00 saying he was not feeling well and was trying to find a ride home.
I was tired and not fond of the idea of riding home in the traffic between Temecula and Highway 62 and it was raining as well so I offered to buy Doug a tank of gas and lunch if he would drive me and my bike home. When we got home we loaded my stuff up and started for 29 Palms. We visited two of the local bike shops on the way out of town then drove through to 29 Palms were we had a delicious burger at a local fast food joint before Doug dropped me off.
As usual it was good to get home and to take a shower and a nice nap on my own bed.
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Epilogue:
I learned several things on this ride and reinforced some that I already knew. That I do not like long steep climbs on a loaded bike is one. I learned I will need to manage my electricity supply on a longer tour very carefully an perhaps even abandon the old HTC phone I am using as a bike computer and expose my brand new beautiful Google phone to the rigors of handlebar travel as it is much more efficient battery wise. I also learned I can take a backup propane cartridge, Although running out was not too significant on this short trip in familiar territory with good weather and plenty of opportunities go get food and drink it could be a bigger deal in other situations and places.
On the Big Sur ride I used my 12 ounce ultralight hiking tarp for shelter. it worked fine but is a bit of a nuisance to pitch and to crawl in and out of. On this trip I used a 30 year old Sierra designs Sleeve Flashlight tent which I have owned for over 20 years. I was good to live in but it is not free standing (it has to be staked out to stand up) and it is too heavy and too long when packed for the bike and just too old period. The answer is to get a modern lightweight two man free standing tent prior to embarking on a more serious tour.
My new shoe and pedal combination worked very well. I had no foot issues at all on this ride. I wore "touring" sandals and used Shimano pedals with SPD clips on one side and plain platforms on the other. I ended up riding about 80% of the time on the platforms but it was very nice to be able to clip in from time to time and to get out when it got uncomfortable. This worked so well I will try it on the road bike to see if it works well there too. I will get shoe covers for cold or wet conditions.
I learned I definitely need to get a front rack and another set of panniers for better weight distribution and for more room to carry the additional gear and supplies I will need on a longer ride.
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